![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:00 • Filed to: IM READY FOR MY EDUMACTION | ![]() | ![]() |
My mom’s SX4's kicks up more brake dust that I have ever seen. It’s been turning her front wheels brownish/black since we got it but it seems to have gotten worse since we had the pads+rotors replaced last Oct.
so...what’s the best way to combat brake dust? I already get on her case for the occasional riding of the brakes, so there’s that. Also, any good pad recommendations that may kick up less crap?
Cars for your time and knowledge
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:07 |
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Sounds like cheap crappy brake pads were put on her car.
Crappy brake pads = tons of dust.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:08 |
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Ceramic pads leave, like, no dust.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:09 |
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I’m pretty sure the softer the pad, the more brake dust it will kick out, but softer pads are usually better for breaking. So I would just deal with it and clean the wheels more often. I have also noticed that in my neighbours SX4 when they come back from a long journey.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:10 |
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Oem pads where cheap on the SX4, watch out for the rear pads, they use up very quickly and eat the rotors.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:11 |
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Isn't this why dark powdercoated and plasti-dipped wheels started getting so popular about a decade ago? I just figured it was laziness :D
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:12 |
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Get some Collinite 845 and put it on the wheels that way the brake dust will just rinse off most of the time.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:20 |
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One recommendation I’ve seen for low-dusting but still competent brake pads are the Centric Posi-Quiets. Centric owns the StopTech brand, but the Posi-Quiets are more geared to daily driving applications and are a good mix of bite, longevity, and low dust.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:28 |
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Change the pads. Some shoot dust more than others...
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:28 |
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Good grippy race pads = even MOAR dust (and noise, and wear, etc.)
The two aren’t always related.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:30 |
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That was my assumption as well; any recommendations for good pads?
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:32 |
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When we’re discussing a Suzuki SX4, I’m suspecting cheap pads.
You’re right about the race pads, but I highly doubt that’s the case here.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:34 |
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Do you do them yourself of are they done at a shop?
I normally just go with the highest “tier” at the parts store (like if there is silver, gold, platinum - i get the platinum). Definitely Ceramic though.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 13:36 |
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I usually take them to a friend who does them, but this time they skipped out and went to a shop.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:04 |
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I don’t believe crappy pads necessarily means lots of dust. There are real high end track pads that leave tons of dust (and noise) as a side effect of braking bite.
Really I think it comes down to the brand, quality, construction, and type of use that the pad experiences.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:17 |
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As other said... cheap pads will do that.
And ceramic pads can fix the dust issue, however ceramic pads tend to be noisy.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:19 |
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You’d be surprised. The price difference isn’t that big when dealing with rockauto, so I’ve seen people get the “good” ones without realizing that they’re good, but good for an entirely different purpose.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:24 |
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hahaha yeah I could see that happening, but again, I doubt any SX4 owner up clicks on brake pads (let alone shops on rock auto)
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:25 |
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As I’ve covered in other reply’s- it’s a Suzuki SX4, they didn’t put race pads on it. if they’re super dusty and they were cheap they probably aren’t even ceramic pads.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:28 |
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And probably did just “basic” pads, if they got a crazy good deal it’s possible they didn’t do anything with the rotors, if the rotors were grooved and they didn’t at least turn them, the rotors could be chewing up those cheap pads real quick.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:32 |
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Well yeah..I’d make that assumption too. Just stated that as example. Really it is just the compound of the particular pad they installed. Not necessarily cheap (albeit likely) but a particularly dusty one.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:42 |
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I’ve wanted to buy one for a cheap rally car, but they don’t depreciate like you’d think.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 14:45 |
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Hahaha, so many ideas for cheap rally cars.
Damn I want a rally car.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 15:44 |
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Many of the e38 guys seem to love Akebono pads for their almost complete lack of brake dust, at the cost of a little less “initial bite” when first pressing the brake pedal.
Although I haven’t run the Akebonos on the e38 myself, I feel this is a more than acceptable tradeoff.
The OEM Pagid brake bads are insanely dusty, and cleaning basketweaves is a time consuming and finger-wrecking experience. So there’s that.
Also, the OEM Pagid pads offer such awesome amount of initial bite that simply tapping the pedal while the car is at a slow roll will cause it to literally stop on a dime.
Literally stopping on a dime is great and all, it would seem, until you’re in bumper to bumper traffic crawling along at an immeasurably slow speed on mental cruise control, and the guy in front of you taps his brake pedal for whatever reason. You quickly and almost subconsciously stab the brake pedal, and the 4250++lb sedan comes to an immediate, sudden, lock everyone’s seatbelt-retractor, ‘what the fuck did you do that for’ inducing stop.
No thanks.
I’m currently running Hawk HPS pads on mine, and I don’t think I’ll buy them again. Mine are noisy in the summer. Still a bit too dusty for my liking. Also, they work best with a bit of heat in them as you’ll find when cold you will have to apply significantly more pedal pressure to slow and stop the car. That said, once warmed up a touch, pedal pressure is linear and the car will always and undoubtedly stop when I want it to... so that’s good.
Best of luck with whatever you end up going with. I’ll probably try the Akebonos next and if I dislike them I might just grab some Mike Rowe approved Wagner OE’s, lol.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 15:58 |
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new pads, new rotors.
I an unaware of the brand specfics
![]() 06/20/2016 at 18:21 |
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Don’t stop not stopping.
![]() 06/20/2016 at 20:00 |
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The stock Miata pads work really well for my daily driver, but they +do+ dust the wheels. My solution? Matte-black wheels mounted about 4 months ago; so far, so good. . .
![]() 06/21/2016 at 06:42 |
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Everyone should have a rally car.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 09:22 |
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I’m really leaning towards a first gen Ford Probe now for some reason.
Just seems different/weird enough for me.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 09:31 |
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MX-3 V6. 1.8L short stroke V6 with a crank that can supposedly take 9000 RPMs? Sign me up!
![]() 06/21/2016 at 09:49 |
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Also, second gen shares a platform with the 626, which was available with 4wd.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 10:32 |
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OH REALLY?
Well I think I need to turn a probe into an AWD rally machine then.
The First Gen didn’t come with a 1.8L V6. It came with an N/A or Turboed 2.2 Mazda 4 cylinder or a 3.0 Ford Vulcan V6.
Second gen may be the answer after all if I can get it AWD. And it came with a 2.0 Mazda 4 or a 2.5 Mazda 4. Good news is 2nd Gen Ford Probe GT’s came with 4 wheel disc brakes.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 10:40 |
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The 1.8 was only ever put in the MX3. They’re super rare, but the block is identical to the other K series V6s and most people want the displacement of the bigger engines over the revs of the smaller one, so it’s kind of viewed as a throwaway engine compared to the 2.5. The MX6 and Probe were never offered with 4WD, but they use the same platform as the 626 which was, though rare. It did become the chassis for the X-Type and Mondeo later on though, so there might be some cross compatibility and parts should be easier to find if so. If you do this, you will be a True Oppo Hero™ If you want to get super cray cray, see if you can make the MX6 4WS system work with the X-Type 4wd and MX3 1.8L V6.
.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 11:33 |
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Unless OPPO want’s to be the sponsor and pay for it all it’s all a dream at this point lol.
I don’t know that I’d trust a 4WS system off road. I imagine all the breaking lol.
It’s an interesting idea to build a 1.8 to rev like a mad man as opposed to a 2.5, also, I wonder if it’s significantly lighter...
![]() 06/21/2016 at 11:56 |
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It’s probably heavier actually. It’s the same block, just not bored as wide. The rod ratio is through the roof though, and higher than most of the famous rev-happy small displacement engines and alot of the other K parts are plug-and-play (in addition to BP solid lifters). I want one to play with so badly. I think that Mazda screwed up by putting that engine in the front of the MX3. If they put it behind the seats, they’d have had an exotic-sounding mid-engined screamer.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:08 |
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You know you waaaant iiiit.....
http://www.jdmquality.com/mazda/k8-dohc-…
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:13 |
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Man only 300 bucks?!
These engines are so cheap compared to the V8's I’m used to worrying about (Ford 5.0). I can’t get a set of heads with that kind of low mileage for 300 bucks for the Montego.
Good thing the engine’s cheap because i’ll need some serious fucking tires.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:15 |
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Yeah, like I said. It’s veiwed as a throwaway motor because of the displacement. They’re so, so wrong. I can pick up a handful of them for the price of a single 4AGE.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:23 |
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I wonder if you could just buy one of these and bore the shit out of it to make the 2.5?
*Troll engine building*
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:29 |
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The 2.5 has a longer stroke too, but I’m sure you can get some extra displacement out of it.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:38 |
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Haha, I bet it’s cheaper to buy a rebuilt 2.5, than to bore and build a 1.8 that far.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:50 |
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Yeah, by the time you make it a 2.5 (It’s more than just the bore), you’re better off just starting with a 2.5 since you’re going to be using the rods and crank from that anyway. Better off making your 1.8 a 9000 rpm screamer. Dropping one in the back of my MR2 has been at the back of my mind forever. Yeah, people do MZ V6 and 3S Turbo swaps, but none of them have the character of the 4AGE. The K8 might be the perfect oddball to drop in.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 12:59 |
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Oddball is the best ball.
I was also looking at Fiero’s to turn into rally cars, talk about a car that’ll accept tons of engines haha
![]() 06/21/2016 at 13:09 |
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NORTHSTAR!!!!! The most underdeveloped engine ever built. Designed for transverse applications, aluminum, relatively compact. With better valve springs and disabled rev limiter, it’s good for 8000 rpms stock ;)
It’s been done in Fieros, but they generally eat the transmissions people use.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 13:14 |
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Yeah I think there’s a bit of an issue with space. Could always do a 3800 as well. Trans problem again lol.
But yeah Northstar was my first thought, it would be fast as hell until it broke.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 14:08 |
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They fit. Good luck changing your spark plugs, but there are alot of N* Fieros around.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 14:41 |
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Oh I know they fit, I meant space being an issue if you wanted a transmission that held up better. I’m suspecting you just cram anything else in there.
![]() 06/21/2016 at 15:13 |
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Most of the ones I’ve seen are still using the stock 5MT Getrag or the 3 speed auto. I’m guessing custom half shafts would need to be made to make another tranny work, but considering this is GM we’re talking about, the bolt patterns should all be the same.